BALENCIAGA: SHAPING FASHION @ THE V&A

Cristobal Balenciaga is arguably one of the most inspiring and innovative fashion designers of his time, and continues to influence the fashion industry today. In 1917, aged just 22, Balenciaga opened his first dressmaking business in his birth place of Spain. In 1937, Balenciaga's first couture house was opened in the fashion forward city of Paris. And today, in 2017, The Victoria and Albert Museum are celebrating these two anniversaries and the entirety of his 50 year career with the exhibition Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion.  

The exhibition explores Balenciaga's revolutionary designs. He experimented with the shape of women's fashion like no designer had before. Some of his most famous pieces are the baby doll, sack and envelope dresses, which created "sculptural forms that stood away from he body, framing the figure rather than restricting it" (Victoria and Albert Museum, 2017). The envelope dress (pictured below) was a design from the pinnacle of Balenciaga's career in the late 1960s. It is moulded into a four-pointed shape in silk gazar, making it "stiff but lightweight" (Victoria and Albert Museum, 2017) - and almost impossible to wear!

Cocktail Envelope Dress
Silk gazar
Cristobal Balenciaga
Paris,France, 1967
Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 2017

The exhibition includes an x-ray project where select pieces were x-rayed by Nick Veasey in order to reveal intricate details hidden within the garment. The x-ray of the evening dress (pictured below) shows the internal hooping which cleverly supports the dress' layers of fabric. 


Silk taffeta evening dress
Cristóbal Balenciaga
1955, Paris, France
Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 2017

Furthermore, Balenciaga's legacy has inspired the fashion designer's of today, also featured in the exhibition. One of my favourite pieces is the Oscar de la Renta embroidered dress. Much like Balenciaga, Oscar de la Renta's spanish roots translated into his designs. "Floral patterns and flamenco ruffles are reoccurring motifs" (
Balenciaga Shaping Fashion, 2017) in both designers' work. 


Embroidered silk organza over tulle
Oscar de la Renta, New York
Spring/Summer 2015
Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 2017

By the end of the exhibition, one is given an insight into the inventive and revolutionary mind of Balenciaga and discovers the sculptural and complex design behind the sophisticated exterior of his garments. 



BIBLIOGRAPHY

Exhibition:

Balenciaga Shaping Fashion. (2017). Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 27th May 2017-18th February 2018.

Books:

Miller, L. E. (2017). Balenciaga Shaping Fashion. South Kensington, London: V&A Publishing. 

Walker, M. (2006). Balenciaga and his legacy. New Haven: Yale University Press.

Web:

Victoria and Albert Museum. (2017). V&A · About the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion exhibition. [online] Available at: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/about-balenciaga-shaping-fashion [Accessed 29 Sep. 2017].

Victoria and Albert Museum. (2017). V&A · Contemporary fashion designers on Balenciaga. [online] Available at: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/contemporary-fashion-designers-on-balenciaga [Accessed 29 Sep. 2017].

Victoria and Albert Museum. (2017). V&A · Introducing Cristóbal Balenciaga. [online] Available at: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/introducing-cristobal-balenciaga [Accessed 29 Sep. 2017].


Victoria and Albert Museum. (2017). V&A · Learning from 'The Master'. [online] Available at: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/learning-from-the-master [Accessed 29 Sep. 2017].

Victoria and Albert Museum. (2017). V&A · Secrets of Balenciaga's construction. [online] Available at: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/secrets-of-balenciagas-construction [Accessed 29 Sep. 2017].

Victoria and Albert Museum. (2017). V&A · X-raying Balenciaga. [online] Available at: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/x-raying-balenciaga [Accessed 29 Sep. 2017].

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