THE HISTORY OF CHINTZ

Cotton is one of the biggest global commodities, and has been for many centuries. Originating from India and arriving in England in the mid-1600s, it revolutionised the fashion industry as well as changing the economy as it became globalised, connecting the whole of the Western World through exchange of cotton.


Chintz, a textile made from cotton, has an importance throughout the history of fashion. Many of us will recall a floral and somewhat outdated fabric when thinking of Chintz. However, it is in fact the term for “a textile tradition of hand block printing with natural dyes” (Lal, 2015) and it is a complex technique. Seemingly British, Chintz also originated from India and is equally popular in other European countries as it is in England. By the mid-1800s, it was produced on a large scale in England and became vastly popular. This is due to the utilitarian qualities of Chintz, according to Crosby Stevens, curator of the exhibition Chintz Yatra (Chintz Journey) at Brodsworth Hall. "It's a very practical, very tough fabric. You can wipe it clean - it was a very Victorian thing to be against dust."

18th century chintz petticoat and jacket
Victoria and Albert Museum, London

At the beginning, Chintz was associated with the wealthy middle class as it was a rare commodity, and therefore the demand for its production became higher and higher. On the other hand, the higher demand meant production of cheaper Chintz, and so it became less of a luxury and more widely owned by all types of people. But by the 1900s, Chintz became naff and grew out of fashion.


However, Chintz has made a comeback in 21st century design. The technique has influenced many designers and collections, including the likes of Gucci’s Spring Summer 2018 collection. The collection takes the idea of traditional floral Chintz and incorporates it into the modern design. 


Gucci Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Book:

Burnard, J. (1994). Chintz and Cotton: India's textile gift to the world. Kenthurst, NSW: Kangaroo Press.

Web:

Fotheringham, A. (2015). Guest Post: Renuka Reddy’s Adventures in Chintz. [online] Blog. Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/fabric-of-india/guest-post-renuka-reddys-adventures-in-chintz [Accessed 8 Nov. 2017].

Lal, S. (2015). Guest Post: Indian Chintz – A Legacy of Luxury. [online] Blog. Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/fabric-of-india/guest-post-indian-chintz-a-legacy-of-luxury [Accessed 8 Nov. 2017].

Murphy, D. (2003). Chintz charming. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2003/apr/05/shopping.artsfeatures [Accessed 8 Nov. 2017].

 Vogue.co.uk. (2017). Gucci Spring/Summer 2018 Ready To Wear. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection [Accessed 8 Nov. 2017].

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